Slabtastic climbing in Setesdal

This week we have come to a beautiful part of southern Norway, Setesdal.

Setesdal isn’t very far from Rjukan, a place we’ve visited for ice climbing. It’s just a little south and just a little west, but still in Telemark country. Setesdal is a valley running north to south, with the most amazing granite domes on either side. Oh yes, granite domes, that means slab climbing!

A couple of years ago I had looked at going to Nissedal in Norway, another valley with granite domes, but the only guidebook I could find to the area was in German and couldn’t be bought in the UK. Fortunately, Richard, the man who knows all there is to know about guidebooks, informed us that a new Setesdal guidebook was on its way. Result! Ryanair flights to Oslo Torpe were booked, car hire was booked and camping cabin in Flateland was booked.

We weren’t sure what the weather might be like, but planned for wet and cold. Fortunately, for this week, the jet stream was in the right place and we’ve had gloriously sunny and hot days.

We started with some short routes, to get acclimatised. We headed to Loefjell Plaisir – Picnic. Here we got used to the fantastic friction with no holds on some two pitch routes.

Paul on The Beat Goes On — Paul on *The Beat Goes On*

On Sunday we checked out Homme Einang – Lord, but we were unimpressed so we went back to Loefell, a little further along than Saturday, to Loefell West – Brokkestoylen. These were one pitch wonders, but seemed much steeper.

Richard on Fingertips — Richard on *Fingertips*

Pete & Tish at the top of Mosquito No 7 — Pete & Tish at the top of *Mosquito No 7*

By Monday we were ready for some longer routes so we went to Bo Neverland. Paul and Richard took on Kaa & Co. (8 pitches) and Pete and I did Smee (10 pitches). Nearly all the pitches are 60m, but they were of a reasonably easy grade which meant we could climb at a good speed, but also meant very sore feet.