With the good weather here at last, it seems sensible to grab an chance of an evening route. Location: Shepherds. Easy to get to and a caff at the bottom. Pete fancied something steeper than the slabs he’d been on last week in Cham, so I picked out North Buttress, E1 4c, 5b as its one of the routes on the crag I’d not done. As Pete is younger than me (by a couple of months I think), I let him do the harder second pitch. (good move).
The first pitch covered some of the same ground as Crunchy Frog, which I’d done the day before, but I still managed to miss the belay, and ended up lashed to some gear and a peg at the bottom of the crux groove.
The next 10 metres were the crux of the route, and as Pete moved up looking for holds/gear/inspiration I could see why the guide says this pitch has stopped many parties.
A very marginal wire and sketchy footholds and Pete inched upwards. I could see it was quite thin, but Pete managed to tense his buttocks, forget about falling off and reach the better holds. “Keep it tight!!!” I shouted as Pete belayed me. Blimey, it was thin, and I was glad I hadn’t led the second pitch. Pete must have the sphincter muscles of Arnold Swarzenegger to have led that I thought, and although it was ok to second it felt like a tough lead.
I’m spending my evenings tensing and untensing my bum-cheeks. I’ll soon move up the grades……………………….
A classic report Ian! Made me laugh!!! π
Hmmm, Pete could have done with some of those clenched butt cheeks last week!!!!