With a clear but cold (ish!) forecast, a bit of valley cragging in the sun seemed in order. Bowderstone Crag, hidden in the trees up the hill from the famous boulder, was a perfect choice being south west facing and quick drying following the overnight rain.
Or rather, it would have been had I taken my usual leisurely approach to these things and got there later when the sun had moved ’round!
After a quick trip up the VS, Woden’s Crack, led by Li’l Pete, attention turned to the two star E1, Valhalla. I also had my eye on the E3 to the right, Heaven’s Gate, but only with a view to some future date, it clearly being to cold (and me too lazy!) to even consider it today.
From below, the crux was obvious. A dark overhang in the middle of the upper corner blocked the way, but the crack in it’s back promised gear and good holds, so how hard could it be? It’s only E1?!
After getting a little spooked by the rather broken lower section I set about the overhang having sorted out a decent wire and a couple of good cams for protection. My confidence soon evaporated as the promised holds over the overhang had run away and hidden. The footholds just weren’t there to start with.
After a bit of grunting I’d got myself committed with half, no, perhaps three-quarters, success. I just had one more leg to convince…
Being a bit a soft sport climber, I don’t really do falling off very well. My fight to save my pride now became a fight for survival, or at least in my head anyway. But the arms just didn’t want to know any more and after a shout of “Take!” to Li’l Pete I faced my destiny.
Obviously the gear was bombproof and the fall perfectly safe, but the irritation and disappointment were real enough. But it’s only E1?
Knowing that the problem hadn’t changed in the intervening period, I had another stab, safe in the knowledge I could give it my all. My all still wasn’t good enough. Some how my third attempt was deemed acceptable and the overhang allowed me through, to more broken rock and the prospect of more airtime than I really fancied. With a bit more of a wobble than I’d like to admit to I belly flopped over the top and was glad it was all over.
But it is only E1…
Awesome report Jon – good for me (if not you) to know that (strong but “soft”) sport climbers still have fun on trad climbs! 😆
Yes, oh how I laughed. Twice.
Where’s the sarcy smiley when you need it?! 😉
🙂
[Serious aside: What would a sarcy smiley look like? Would be good to add, but I can’t think how to draw it…]
Hmmm, not sure. Smiling, but with the eyes and mouth moving left and right like it’s shaking it’s head to say “no”?! :geek:
You mean this classic VS, Jon, ‘Falconer’s Crack’ …
Ah ha, that’ll be the one! The traverse ’round the rib on the second pitch no less. It’s looking nice and furry in your shot too – when were you on it?
Looks great, we’ll keep the fact that it’s on big jugs between you and me shall we?! 😉
About 3 years ago with Andy Saxby 😛