Today we tackled another of the top 50 routes from the Lofoten guidebook – Bare BlÃ¥bær at Djupfjord. This is a very popular slab and crack climb approached by a beautiful walk.
So popular in fact that we met someone we knew…
Chris was here doing a lecture for the Norwegian Navy and was taking advantage of willing climbing partners from the Navy.
The sun doesn’t hit the slab until early afternoon, so we did most of the climb in the shade – it was very cold with the arctic breeze.
This is a Norwegian grade 5, and a lovely looking granite slab, so I had hoped to lead a good part of the route, but the cracks demanded serious jamming, which I just can’t seem to master, so I only ended up leading the easiest first pitch.
The grit monsters – Paul and Richard – found it easy, showing how to jam with style. Even Pete jammed with success. And I could hear Chris above calling out, “what fantastic jamming”, and later, “ooooh, my feet hurt.” I had to be satisfied with seconding. I managed a little jam (more like conserve actually) but I simply loved the friction on the slab.
As the sun came round, more climbers approached, but we were on the abseil by then.
A justifiably very popular route.
When last spotted on the route, Pete, the jamming aspirant was seen lowering his wife down a large cravasse type crack in which while fumbling at the top of the pitch he’d managed to drop his belay device. After much groping around in the large crevasse type crack, Laetitia, the aforementioned wife, managed to irretrievably lose the belay device permanently – have you seen how much belay devices cost in Norway…..
Looks awesome folks, glad you seem to have the weather with you, fingers crossed it stays that way. With all those cracks about, don’t forget your :alien: ‘s if you try anything harder…
(N.B. spotted the new emoticon so had to use it!)
Well spotted Jon, and nice usage. Been wondering how to fit it in for a while. 😀
Rock looks great again!!! :love: :love:
Surprised you didn’t have a spare belay device on your rack Pete 😯 😯 ……. I always carry one… 🙄
Don’t ever aspire to be a grit monster Tish, you’ll pay a fortune for a manicure in Norway!!
Sir Chris has updated his blog, check it out (24th June entry).